Q: How often does gear need to be serviced?
A: Regulators need yearly service. Tanks need a yearly visual inspection and a hydrostatic test every five years. The cost to service a regulator (one first stage andtwo second stages) will run anywhere from $40 to $140 depending on the brand, the warranty and whether parts are available. Tank visuals cost $15 and hydros are $35 (both include everything you need to get diving again).

Q: Why is my 2nd stage or Octopus slowly leaking?
A: It could be a couple of things. One is that there is dirt or sand in the regulator preventing the valve from closing. Another is that there is a high pressure leak in the 1st stage regulator. Your soft seat may be worn and need to be replaced. These are the most common problems but really the solution is the same. Bring it in for servicing. Things to note are: How long has it been since the regulator was serviced? How many dives have you done with the reg since the last service? If it was serviced recently the soft seat may have grooved and just needs a quick adjustment.

Q: Why do I have lots of “Champagne” bubbles on my high pressure hose?
A: The HP hose is failing. Usually this happens with older hoses but sometimes new hoses have this same issue. DO NOT DIVE with it! This hose could go at any second and needs replacement immediately.

Q: There are bubbles coming from my tank/regulator connection, will I run out of air if this is happening?
A: In most cases the bubbling is minor due to a worn tank o-ring. Sometimes it is caused by dirt or a crease at the point of the seal. Try gently twisting the first stage to see if the o-ring will seal if it does not then replace the oring. Most divers have save-a-dive kits that contain o-rings. I have also seen them on hose protectors and on the string that the tank valve cap is held in place with. You can also “borrow” an o-ring from another tank that is not being used.

Q: How should I rinse my gear?
A: This is one of the most important things you can do. First thing to do is make sure that the dust cap is firmly in place on the first stage and that you have left your computer connected if it has a quick disconnect on it. Go ahead and set up a rinse tub – a sink, bath tub, or utility tub from a home improvement store works well. We use rope tote tubs to carry and rinse gear. Immerse the gear completely in fresh water and swirl each component around to get fresh water into the nooks and crannies. Sorry – just putting the gear under a shower or running a hose over it doesn’t work. If your gear sat with salt water on it for an extended period of time (more than four or five hours), then leave your gear immersed in fresh water for several hours at least to let the salt come back off the gear. This is the best way to keep your gear running right.

Q: My tank slips during the dive?
A: This usually happens when the cam band is not wet prior to placing the BCD on the tank. Another common cause is when the cam band is tightened the diver forgets to run the strap through the last slot on the cam and the tanks slips. Make sure to wet your BCD Strap and put the strap through the last slot.

Q: I often get confused when putting my regulator on the tank valve?
A: Just remember that the 2nd stage and Octo come around your right shoulder and that the SPG and inflator hoses come around your left shoulder.

Q: What do I do when my regulator free flows?
A: If you are out of the water place your finger in the mouthpiece or put the regulator in your mouth. This should stop the free flow. If you are in the water make sure that the mouthpiece is down or place the regulator in your mouth. DO NOT Hit the regulator this will make it free flow. DO NOT push the purge button, this will make the regulator free flow.

Save A Dive Kits
There are many basic save a dive kits that are sold. They consist of some basic items like; Mask Strap, Fin Strap, Mouth piece, Zip ties, Snorkel Keeper, O-rings for tank to reg. Things to add: Scuba Tool, Picks, Allen wrench set, Adjustable wrench, Silicone grease.